tudor 7928 gilt | tudor 7928 for sale

The Tudor Submariner 7928, particularly those with gilt dials, represents a pinnacle of vintage dive watch collecting. These timepieces, produced from the late 1950s through the late 1960s, offer a compelling blend of Rolex-inspired design, robust construction, and a unique character that sets them apart. The allure of the 7928 lies in its classic aesthetics, its historical significance, and its relative accessibility compared to its Rolex cousins. While a pristine example can command prices in the realm of $9,400.00 (and often much more), understanding the nuances of this model is crucial for both seasoned collectors and those just entering the world of vintage Tudor Submariners.

A Heritage Forged in the Depths

The Tudor Submariner story begins in the 1950s, with Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, seeking to offer a more affordable alternative to his flagship brand. Tudor watches were designed to provide the same reliability and robustness as Rolex, but with movements and components sourced from external suppliers, allowing for a more competitive price point. The Submariner line was central to this strategy, providing divers and enthusiasts with a capable and stylish tool watch.

The reference 7928, introduced around 1959, marked a significant evolution in the Tudor Submariner lineage. It replaced the earlier 7922 and 7924 references and introduced the iconic pointed crown guards that would become a hallmark of the Tudor Submariner design. The 7928 was produced in various iterations, each with subtle variations in dial markings, hand styles, and bezel inserts, making the hunt for a specific example a rewarding and challenging pursuit.

Decoding the Tudor 7928 Gilt: A Collector's Guide

The term "gilt" refers to the dial finishing process used on early 7928s. Rather than printing the markings in white or silver, the dial was treated with a gold-colored lacquer, creating a rich, glossy sheen. The text, minute track, and coronet logo appear in this gold color, adding a touch of warmth and elegance to the utilitarian design. Gilt dials are highly prized by collectors for their aesthetic appeal and their relative rarity.

Tudor 7928 Specs: Under the Hood and On the Wrist

Understanding the specifications of the Tudor 7928 is essential for authenticating and appreciating this vintage timepiece:

* Case: Stainless steel, typically 39mm in diameter (excluding the crown). The cases were manufactured by Rolex, and the quality is undeniable. Over time, the cases can show signs of wear, including scratches and dings. Original case finishing is a highly desirable feature.

* Crown: Screw-down crown, often signed with the Rolex coronet. These crowns were vital for ensuring water resistance. The presence of the Rolex crown is not a sign of inauthenticity; it was standard practice for Tudor to use Rolex-signed components.

* Bezel: Bi-directional rotating bezel with a graduated insert marked with numerals and hash marks for tracking elapsed dive time. Bezel inserts came in various styles, including those with "kissing 4s" (where the 4s on the 40, 50, and 45 numerals touch the minute track). Original bezel inserts are highly sought after.

* Dial: The dial is arguably the most important feature for collectors. Early 7928s featured gilt dials, while later versions had matte dials with white or silver printing. The dial should be carefully examined for signs of refinishing or damage. The condition of the lume plots (the luminous material used on the hour markers and hands) is also a critical factor.

* Hands: Typically, the 7928 featured Mercedes hands, a design borrowed from Rolex. These hands provide excellent legibility. Like the dial, the hands should be inspected for originality and condition.

* Movement: The Tudor 7928 was typically powered by either the ETA 390 or the ETA 390 caliber. These are robust and reliable movements that have proven their durability over time. Servicing the movement is essential for maintaining its accuracy and longevity.

* Crystal: Plexiglass crystal, often domed in shape. These crystals are prone to scratches and can be polished. Replacing a damaged crystal is a common practice.

* Water Resistance: While originally designed to be water resistant, vintage 7928s should not be relied upon for diving without a professional pressure test. The gaskets and seals deteriorate over time, compromising their water resistance.

Tudor 7928 Movement: The Heart of the Matter

The ETA 390 movement is a workhorse caliber known for its reliability and ease of service. While not as elaborately finished as some high-end movements, the ETA 390 provided the accuracy and dependability required for a dive watch. Key features of the movement include:tudor 7928 gilt

* Automatic winding: The movement is self-winding, powered by the motion of the wearer's wrist.

* Date function: The 7928 does not feature a date complication, keeping the dial clean and uncluttered.

* Frequency: The movement typically beats at 18,000 vibrations per hour (VPH).