tesi givenchy | riccardo tisci Givenchy designer

Riccardo Tisci’s name is inextricably linked with the house of Givenchy. For twelve years, from 2005 to 2017, he served as its Creative Director, a period that marked a significant and transformative era for the storied French brand. His tenure wasn’t just about designing clothes; it was about injecting a new aesthetic, a new sensibility, and a new vision into the very DNA of Givenchy, one that resonated with a new generation of luxury consumers. Tisci, a self-proclaimed outsider, brought a dark, gothic romanticism to the traditionally elegant and refined house, challenging conventions and pushing boundaries in a way that both shocked and captivated the fashion world. This article delves deep into the Tisci Givenchy era, exploring his key collections, collaborations, and the lasting impact he had on the brand and the wider fashion landscape.

The Arrival: A Gothic Vision Takes Root

Riccardo Tisci’s appointment to Givenchy in 2005 was initially met with a degree of skepticism. He was relatively unknown, having previously worked for smaller labels and focusing primarily on menswear. He lacked the established pedigree of some of his predecessors, and his personal style – a blend of streetwear influences and a distinctly gothic sensibility – seemed at odds with the classically elegant image that Givenchy had cultivated under designers like Hubert de Givenchy himself and, more recently, Alexander McQueen.

However, Tisci quickly proved his critics wrong. He understood the power of contrast and the allure of the unexpected. He retained a sense of the brand's heritage, honoring its dedication to craftsmanship and elegance, but he infused it with a modern, almost subversive edge. His first haute couture collection, presented in July 2005 during Paris Fashion Week, was a clear indication of the direction he intended to take Givenchy. It was a collection that was both beautiful and unsettling, featuring long, flowing gowns in dark, muted colors, adorned with intricate lace and embroidery. There was a distinct gothic element, a hint of darkness and mystery that was unlike anything seen at Givenchy before.tesi givenchy

This initial collection set the tone for Tisci's entire tenure. He consistently explored themes of darkness and light, beauty and decay, strength and fragility. He was drawn to religious iconography, animal motifs (particularly Rottweilers and Dobermans), and the contrast between hard and soft materials. He used these elements to create collections that were both visually stunning and emotionally resonant.

Key Design Elements: Deconstructing and Reconstructing Elegance

Tisci's design vocabulary at Givenchy was characterized by several key elements that became hallmarks of his aesthetic:

* Gothic Romanticism: This was perhaps the defining characteristic of Tisci's Givenchy. He embraced dark colors, dramatic silhouettes, and intricate detailing to create a sense of gothic grandeur. Black lace, velvet, and leather were frequently used, often paired with delicate fabrics like chiffon and silk.

* Contrast and Opposition: Tisci was a master of contrast. He juxtaposed hard and soft materials, masculine and feminine silhouettes, and dark and light colors to create tension and visual interest. This was evident in his use of leather and lace, tailoring and draping, and his frequent pairing of black and white.

* Animal Motifs: Animals, particularly Rottweilers, Dobermans, and sharks, became recurring motifs in Tisci's Givenchy collections. These animals, often seen as symbols of aggression and power, were used in a variety of ways, from printed graphics on t-shirts to embroidered details on gowns. The use of these motifs added a rebellious and edgy element to the brand's image.

* Religious Iconography: Tisci, who was raised Catholic, often incorporated religious imagery into his designs. Crosses, rosaries, and images of saints appeared in his collections, adding a layer of symbolism and spirituality. This element, while sometimes controversial, contributed to the overall sense of mystery and drama that characterized Tisci's Givenchy.

* Sharp Tailoring and Fluid Draping: Tisci was skilled in both tailoring and draping, and he often combined these techniques in his designs. He created sharp, structured silhouettes that were both powerful and elegant, as well as fluid, flowing dresses that were incredibly sensual and feminine.

* The Use of Leather: Leather was a staple material in Tisci's Givenchy collections. He used it in a variety of ways, from biker jackets and leggings to intricately constructed dresses and gowns. Leather added a tough and edgy element to the brand's image, reflecting Tisci's own personal style.

* Emphasis on the Neckline: Tisci frequently emphasized the neckline in his designs, using high collars, plunging necklines, and intricate embellishments to draw attention to this area of the body. This added a sense of drama and sophistication to his collections.

Iconic Collections: Defining Moments in Fashion History

Several collections stand out as particularly significant during Tisci's tenure at Givenchy, showcasing his evolving vision and solidifying his influence on the fashion world:

* Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2005: As mentioned earlier, this collection marked Tisci's debut and established his gothic romantic aesthetic.