The Tudor Submariner, a cornerstone of the brand's history and a highly sought-after vintage watch, exists in a fascinating landscape of references and subtle variations. Among the most popular and collectible are the 75090 and its successor, the 75190. These 36mm divers offer a compelling alternative to their larger Rolex counterparts, packing a significant punch in terms of style, robustness, and historical significance. While visually similar at first glance, key differences separate these two references, particularly in their crystal and bezel construction. This article delves into the intricacies of the Tudor 75090 and 75190, focusing on these crucial distinctions while also exploring other relevant factors such as production history, aesthetics, and overall market value. We will also address frequently asked questions to provide a comprehensive understanding of these two iconic Tudor Submariner references.
Production History and Context
The Tudor Submariner 75090 emerged in 1990, continuing Tudor's legacy of producing robust and reliable dive watches. It represented a significant step forward in terms of design and build quality compared to its predecessors. The 75090 enjoyed a relatively short production run, lasting until approximately 1995 when it was superseded by the ref. 75190.
This transition wasn't a radical departure; rather, it represented an evolution of the existing design. Tudor aimed to refine certain aspects of the watch, enhancing its overall appeal and durability. The 75190 continued the tradition of offering a more accessible and arguably more versatile alternative to the Rolex Submariner, retaining the core DNA of a classic dive watch while carving out its own distinct identity. Understanding this historical context is crucial when evaluating the 75090 and 75190, as it highlights the subtle yet meaningful changes implemented by Tudor during this period.tudor 75090 vs 75190
Crystal: The Most Obvious Difference
The most readily apparent difference between the Tudor 75090 and the 75190 lies in their crystal construction. The 75090 features a domed acrylic crystal. This crystal, often referred to as a "plexi" or "plastic" crystal, has a warm, vintage charm. It distorts light in a unique way, creating a pleasing visual effect, especially when viewed at an angle. It's also relatively soft, making it prone to scratches and scuffs. However, these imperfections are often considered part of the watch's character, adding to its vintage appeal. Polishing acrylic crystals is relatively straightforward, allowing owners to easily remove minor scratches and maintain a clear view of the dial.
In contrast, the Tudor 75190 utilizes a flat sapphire crystal. Sapphire is significantly harder than acrylic, making it much more scratch-resistant. This provides a clearer and more durable view of the dial, maintaining its pristine appearance for a longer period. The sapphire crystal also offers greater clarity and less distortion compared to the acrylic crystal. While sapphire crystals are more resistant to scratches, they are more prone to chipping or shattering upon impact. Repairing or replacing a sapphire crystal is also typically more expensive than polishing an acrylic crystal.
The choice between acrylic and sapphire is largely a matter of personal preference. The acrylic crystal offers a vintage aesthetic and ease of maintenance, while the sapphire crystal provides enhanced durability and clarity. This difference significantly impacts the overall look and feel of the watch, contributing to the distinct identities of the 75090 and 75190.
Bezel: Subtle Refinements
While the crystal is the most prominent difference, the bezel also underwent subtle refinements between the 75090 and 75190. Both models feature a unidirectional rotating bezel, a crucial feature for dive watches allowing the wearer to track elapsed time underwater. The bezels are typically made of stainless steel with an aluminum insert.
The primary difference lies in the bezel insert's font and construction. While the exact variations can be subtle and subject to some debate within the collector community, the 75190 generally features a slightly bolder font on the bezel insert compared to the 75090. The "pip" at the 12 o'clock position (lume plot) might also differ slightly in size and shape between the two references. Some argue that the 75190's bezel insert is also slightly more resistant to fading, although this can be difficult to verify definitively due to the age and varying environmental conditions experienced by these watches.
These bezel variations are subtle, and often require a close comparison to discern. However, they contribute to the overall aesthetic differences between the two models and are factors that collectors consider when evaluating their respective values.
Other Key Features and Considerations
Beyond the crystal and bezel, the Tudor 75090 and 75190 share many similarities. Both models feature: