collezione scandalo ysl | YSL controversy

The "Collezione Scandalo YSL," more accurately known as Yves Saint Laurent's 1971 collection, remains one of the most controversial and talked-about moments in fashion history. Unveiled on January 29, 1971, the collection, officially titled "Libération," was a deliberate provocation, a deliberate attempt to shock and challenge the prevailing fashion sensibilities. Inspired by the styles of the 1940s, a decade fraught with war, hardship, and a very different understanding of femininity, it was met with a barrage of criticism, earning it the enduring moniker of the "Scandal Collection" or "Collezione Scandalo." This article delves into the historical context, the collection's design elements, the vehement reaction it provoked, its long-term impact on fashion, and the enduring legacy of Yves Saint Laurent's audacious move.

YSL Collection du Scandale: More Than Just Dresses

While the collection is often remembered for its dresses, it encompassed a full range of garments, each contributing to the overall impact and eliciting strong reactions. It wasn't simply a few scandalous pieces amidst a more conventional offering; the entire collection was a cohesive statement intended to disrupt the status quo.

* The 1940s Inspiration: The collection drew heavily on the fashion of the 1940s, a period that, in 1971, was considered unfashionable, even distasteful. Post-war austerity had lingered in the collective memory, and the decade's styles were associated with hardship and restrictions. Saint Laurent's decision to revisit this era was a deliberate challenge to the prevailing trends of the late 1960s, which emphasized youth, freedom, and a more fluid silhouette. He rejected the miniskirts and psychedelic patterns that defined the era, opting instead for longer hemlines, square shoulders, and fitted waists reminiscent of wartime fashion.

* Design Elements and Key Pieces: The collection featured a range of design elements that contributed to its controversial nature:collezione scandalo ysl

* Platform Shoes: Towering platform shoes, often in clashing colors, were a key element, adding height and a sense of theatricality to the looks.

* Square Shoulders: The strong, squared shoulders, created with padding, were a stark contrast to the softer, more natural silhouettes that were popular at the time.

* Tea Dresses: Tea dresses, characterized by their mid-calf length and often featuring floral prints, were a prominent feature. These dresses, while seemingly demure, were often rendered in provocative fabrics or paired with unexpected accessories.

* Padded Hips: Padding was used to accentuate the hips, creating an exaggerated hourglass figure that further evoked the 1940s aesthetic.

* Turbans and Headscarves: Turbans and headscarves were used to accessorize the looks, adding a touch of old Hollywood glamour and further solidifying the 1940s influence.

* Exaggerated Makeup: Models wore heavy makeup, including dark eyeliner and red lipstick, creating a dramatic and somewhat severe look.

* Fur Stoles and Jackets: Fur stoles and jackets, often in bold colors, added a luxurious and somewhat decadent touch to the collection.

* Short, Curled Hairstyles: The hairstyles were reminiscent of the 1940s, contributing to the overall vintage aesthetic.

* The Use of Fabrics and Colors: Saint Laurent utilized a variety of fabrics, including wool, silk, and velvet. The color palette was equally diverse, ranging from muted earth tones to bold, saturated hues. He often combined contrasting colors and patterns, creating visually jarring and unexpected combinations. The use of fabrics like crepe de chine and jersey gave a slinky, almost louche feel to some of the garments, contrasting with the more structured silhouettes.

YSL Scandal Show Review: A Symphony of Disapproval

The reaction to the "Collezione Scandalo YSL" was overwhelmingly negative. Fashion critics, journalists, and even some of Saint Laurent's own clients expressed their dismay and disapproval. The collection was widely perceived as being ugly, vulgar, and a betrayal of Saint Laurent's previous work.

* Critical Response: Fashion critics were particularly harsh in their assessment of the collection. They accused Saint Laurent of being out of touch with the times and of deliberately trying to shock his audience. Some critics went so far as to call the collection a "disaster" and a "betrayal of good taste." One particularly scathing review in Women's Wear Daily declared the collection a "complete failure" and questioned Saint Laurent's sanity.

* Public Reaction: The public reaction was equally negative. Many people found the collection to be unattractive and unflattering. They criticized the longer hemlines, the square shoulders, and the padded hips, arguing that these elements made women look older and less attractive. The association with the 1940s, a decade associated with wartime deprivation, further fueled the negative reaction.

* The "Ugly" Factor: A recurring theme in the criticism was the perceived "ugliness" of the collection. The critics and the public alike found the clothes to be unattractive and unflattering. They argued that Saint Laurent had deliberately chosen to create ugly clothes in order to shock his audience. This perception of ugliness was a key factor in the collection's scandalous reputation.